It's a 1996 LK3054, and is in excellent condition with only 367 hours on it. Maintenance should be minimal on this tractor. It was used by an elderly couple to cut the grass at their second home until recently, and has always been kept out of the weather. It has a 60" "BrushBull" attached, and a lift mechanism that stays where you put it. It's a 30 HP diesel, which will perform much better than the 8N's anemic 25 HP gasoline engine. It has 8 speeds (4 forward speeds with hi, lo, and reverse), so you should be able to find a gear that is best suited to cutting grass. You'll immediately notice that the roll bar has been cut off. That's to avoid low hanging limbs on trees, which are not really a problem for us. We'll probably weld a bar across the top to regain some rollover protection, but originally the bar was much taller. The seat is adjustable. This tractor has a fuel gauge, with an idiot light!
Be careful to only put diesel fuel in it! We have a diesel tank in the same shed as the tractor. It's gravity fed, but the ball valve at the bottom of the tank (other end of the hose) needs to be opened before "pumping" fuel into the tractor. These thing goes a long way on a tank of fuel, so check the gauge before you worry about adding more fuel.
We will have a training session on this tractor, as far as how to start it and that kind of thing, when things warm up a bit. Here is a scan of the Tractor Manual (PDF). It's a large (32MB) file, so be patient. It's 400 dpi so the pictures still look good.
Here's a condensed list of important items in the manual (you should still read the manual before you use it though).
But first, a word about the clutch...this is important!
The PTO clutch is the lower half inch of the transmission's clutch...it's a two-stage clutch. If you turn the tractor off with blade spinning, and then take your foot off the clutch the way you would in a car, it's like "dumping" the clutch on a drag car! Giant blade is spinning, but tractor mass is at a dead stop...lots of shuddering and clutch wear ensues. The clutch takes a beating, and could even explode into pieces, and then we have to separate the tractor halves to replace it! Don't even slowly release the clutch...you'll wear it unnecessarily. Instead, simply stop the tractor when you are finished mowing, push the clutch all the way in, and shift the PTO into neutral (up against the aluminum plate), release the clutch and then drive the tractor back to the shed. You'll probably want to put it in 8th for the drive back anyway. By the time you get there, the blade will probably be stopped by the time you turn the tractor off, but it doesn't really matter...it's disconnected from the clutch. Why am I so concerned about the clutch? Because there's no more adjustment left on it, so it's not long for this world, and I'm not looking forward to replacing it!
A copy of the manual is located in the shed with the tractor, for future reference. For location of the tractor key, talk to someone who's been through the tractor training.
This is the Craig's List photo. We bought it in Cullman, and it was originally sold nearby. Looks red in this picture...
Contact Mark Langford at ML "at" N56ML.com (replace the "at" with @)
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